As much as I love a classic lipstick, I often dash out of the door without anything on my lips. This is certainly no crime, but I have to laugh at myself for being someone who likes the idea of lip color more than actually applying and wearing it. Part my conundrum is that I have fairly thin lips, and it can be challenging to find a lip color and formula that’s flattering and non-drying yet long-lasting. By now, I’ve learned to stay clear of all matte formulas and almost all darker shades (fortunately, there are a few berries that do wonders!).
After learning about a genius makeup technique dreamed up by makeup artist Andrew Gallimore, however, I’m willing to branch out a bit and try his methods for creating the illusion of a supple, “3D,” Marilyn Monroe-esque pout.
Legend has it that the late screen icon used up to eight shades of red lipstick (and some serious skill) to give her lips a lush, pillowy appearance (what could be described as “lip contouring.”). In an interview with Porter, Gallimore described this effect as “fuller, not filler lips; using makeup to create that extra depth and dimension.” Luckily for those of us who may not want to juggle eight lip products, the effect can be created with a more reasonable collection of makeup and a few clever tricks. Here’s how.
Step 1: Gently exfoliate your lips.
“It’s important to first prep the lips,” Gallimore explains. “This ensures you get that smooth vinyl finish.” A natural lip scrub is perfect for the job and will prevent your lips from being dry and flakey.
Try Pacifica Lips Like Sugar Candied Lemon and Sugar Lip Scrub for beautifully softened skin thanks to moisturizing oils of jojoba, coconut, and almond. Or create your own lip exfoliant with shea butter and brown sugar. Massage lips using small, circular motions for about a minute. Gently wipe away dead skin and excess scrub with a warm, damp washcloth and follow with a light balm.
Step 2: Create your base layer with a pencil.
“The secret is now in layering different textures and colors, rather than matching the color underneath to the gloss on top. Try a deep berry red or wine tone—that’s what will give you this multi-dimensional and beautiful rounded effect,” Gallimore says. “Start by using a pencil, not a lipstick, all over the lips—the slightly drier texture lasts much longer as you aren’t layering two liquids.
Make Up Forever Aqua Lip Waterproof Lipliner Pencil in “Dark Plum” is a dramatic yet universally flattering color.
Step 3: Grab your gloss.
After applying pencil, apply your gloss: “lightly edge the lips and in particular soften the cupids bow—certainly don’t accentuate it when wearing gloss, as you’ll lose that rounded effect. Use just a little gloss in the center of your lip and blend it out,” Gallimore instructs.“This stops any build up on the lip line, and lets the metallic finish dissipate a little.”The makeup artist doesn’t use just any gloss, however, but chooses a formula with a metallic gleam for the ultimate 3D finish. Voila! A beautiful, sexy lip that looks extra plump–with just three products.
Hourglass Extreme Sheen High Shine Lip Gloss in “Reflect.” This lustrous gloss may change the way you feel about lip gloss–it’s long-lasting and non-sticky.
What’s your favorite way to do your makeup during the holiday season? Do you have any lip-plumping techniques you swear by? Let us know in the comments below!
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Photo: Andrew Gallimore via Instagram, Respective brands